Lawn Care

Two Ways to Install a New Lawn

Seeding - the preferred method of establishing a lawn: half the cost of sod many wonderful seed blends available for any type of condition hydro seeding drop seeding Sodding - when there is no time to wait for that instant green carpet: highly perishable requires 2 weeks of concentrated heavy watering after installation to assure its success NOTE: Watering is the key!! Whether seed or sod, once installed it is imperative you maintain moisture in the soil for optimum results.

Preparation

The preparation for your new lawn is the hardest part of the job. Proper grading is imperative for a long term properly drained and easy mowing lawn. New lawn installation may include any of the following:

Spring and summer lawn installations are fine, but weeds are more rampant, and the heat and frequent summer droughts require constant watering while new grass plants are germinating.

Over the years, lawns can become weaker due to soil compaction, thatch build up, the aftermath of disease or insect problems or a variety of conditions. When a lawn has been underperforming, and fertilizer and water do not seem to help, it may be time to consider lawn renovation.

Lawn renovation techniques can provide a simpler way to restore the grass plants health and vigor, and save you from tearing out the existing lawn and starting over. Homeland Scapes uses the following techniques in our lawn renovation projects either alone or in combination with another.

Lawn Renovation Techniques:

Core aeration – removes small grass plugs so that nutrients, moisture and air have more access to the grass roots causing improvement in lawn performance. Verticutting – Slice seeding – A machine is passed over the lawn in a criss-cross pattern scarifying the soil surface as it moves along. The machine drops seed and incorporates the seed into the soil surface. Fertilizer is applied. Top dressing/Over-seeding – A thin layer of soil is applied over the top of an existing lawn. Seed and fertilizer are incorporated. Thatching Fertilization Weed control Insect monitoring

Homeland Scapes Complete Lawn Care Program

Winter – Spring (January – March)

Lime Application. Lime corrects soil acidity and toxicity, thereby promoting a better soil environment in which to maintain good, healthy turf grass.

Spring (March – April)
A dry, balanced fertilizer is applies to stimulate growth and development for the new season. During this period, grass develops new roots, rhizomes, and tillers thus increasing the density of your lawn.  A pre-emergent crabgrass control is applied and actively growing weeds present are also treated.  If necessary, Spring Seeding with aeration is applied at this time.

Late Spring (April – May)
This is the time when Weeds are growing most vigorously. An inspection of the lawn is made and a second weed application is applied at this time.

Summer (May – July)

A second application of dry balanced fertilizer, high in slow-release nitrogen, is applied to keep feeding the lawn throughout the summer. Weeds are controlled for the third straight month of the growing season.  A dry insect control is applied to combat grubs, chinch bugs, and sod webworms throughout the summer. A second crabgrass pre-emergent control is applied.

Fall (August – October)

Fall is nature’s time to reseed and rebuild!  We use top quality certified seed especially formulated for this area. A heavy application of dry balanced fertilizer is applied in anticipation of the return to lush growing conditions and cooler temperatures. We aerate your lawn making thousands of holes 1 to 2 ½ inches deep. Fertilizer moves into these holes and into the root zone where needed. Aeration also improves the carbon dioxide and oxygen balance in the soil so essential to proper root development. Watering every day, approximately one-half to three-quarters of an hour in each area, for 20 straight days will promote the maximum germination from the seed we have just sown.

Late Fall (November – December)

This period is an ideal time for very liberal feeding of fertilizer to stimulate root development and in turn, increased density in the lawn.

Mowing

Mowing is one of the most critical management practices that you will perform in the maintenance of your lawn.  Either a reel or rotary-type mower will yield excellent results. A sharp mower blade is essential to ensure that the grass blades are not torn or bruised which permits disease entry and excessive water loss.

We prefer the rotary-type mower because it is easier to maintain and it will readily adjust to the recommended cutting height of 2 ½ to 3 inches.  Never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade per mowing. If too much is removed, your lawn can be severely set back or even destroyed. 

If your lawn does grow tall, raise your mower and reduce it to the recommended height gradually over a period of several cuttings.

We recommend that when mowing; collect your clippings only during peak periods of growth in the spring and fall. The newer generation of mulching-blade mowers has eliminated the need to bag grass clippings at all times. Instead, use your own judgment in removing or bagging clippings.  It is important that you only cut 1 inch off the top of your lawn so clippings will be small and can decompose quickly.

Environmental Benefits of Turf Grasses

Stronger Root System.  Research has clearly shown that the root system is the most important part of the grass plant.  Also, it is known that a more thoroughly developed root system will result from the proper mowing height.

Weed Prevention. Millions of weed seeds are always present in even the most beautiful lawns. The key to a weed free lawn is, in part, the shading effect that a proper cutting height will provide.

A More Balanced Plant. Grass has three basic parts: root, stem, and foliage. But cutting too short, you tend to leave only root and stem. This is much like stripping the leaves from a tree.  It weakens the plant’s ability to make food and will eventually stunt or kill it.

A Better Environment.  Bluegrass and fescues are cool season grasses. On a hot summer day, the temperature is as much as 20 degrees cooler in the shade of the tall (three to four inch) grass than in a sunny bare spot and this lower temperature provides a more optimum environment. 

Watering

Your lawn will require infrequent but deep watering. This is essential to encourage a deep and vigorous root system.  This type of root system will enable the lawn to withstand periods of drought and make the lawn strong enough to tolerate certain disease problems.  There is one rule that will always yield good results and eliminate the guesswork from watering.  Look at the grass blades; if they appear curled or needled, and the lawn shows signs of wilt, it definitely needs watering.

Frequent shallow watering will promote disease, encourage weed seed germination, and foster a shallow root system.  As a rule, each area of turf will require watering for on-half to three-quarters of an hour.